Sulawesi was my target in 1993, but first I was invited to the birthday of Desa Pasedahan, between Candi Dasa and Tenganan in Karangasem/Amlapura district, east Bali. Pak Nyoman Mariatha, my host, made sure I was dressed properly. It was a great day, and the children were equal participants in the celebration. |
The men seemed to do most of the
food preparation, except for the rice which was
brought from home by the women. Adat is an interesting facet of
life that will take me a long time even to begin to understand. :)
From Ujung Pandang in the south, (the gateway to eastern Indonesia)
the Trans-Sulawesi Highway stretches all the way to Manado in the
north. In '93 the road was still unpaved in sections, but it did
make for an
interesting
trip. :)
The funeral rites in Tana Toraja are unique. As a vegetarian I
don't enjoy watching the
killing of animals,
so I hid behind my camera and changed the occasion into an
artificial, through-the-lens experience. I'm told that sometimes
more than a hundred kerbau are slaughtered in the celebrations for a
rich person's funeral. Only four were killed on this day.
Danau Poso, in Central Sulawesi is a large body
of water in a beautiful, natural-looking part of the country.
These kids in Pendolo, on the southern shore of
the lake, came down to watch the ferry leave. I was told that
"wild-men" still roam the jungles of the area.
In Tindoli, near Pendolo, the children followed
me at a distance, running away laughing if I spun around to look at them.
Getting wet seems to be a local specialty, and
there's more to see than just the waterfall.
Manado reminded me of Adelaide (why?) and its
millions of blue microbuses provide a great service.
But Bunaken Island
is one place to spend a honeymoon. It is so
peaceful there.
The locals are friendly, the water is clear and warm, and the coral reef with its milticoloured fish is beautiful. I caught the Mutiara to Pulau Bunaken from the back of a copra trading shop perched over the river in Manado. Sunset over Manado Tua Island, as seen from an outrigger canoe was one of the highlights. | ||
After a short and happy stay with some
Balinese transmigrants near
Kendari in Southeast Sulawesi, and an even shorter stay with Duncan,
this time in Surabaya, I stayed a while with Father Charlie Burrows at
the Pastoran Katolik, Cilacap.
While there I was shown the schools and other projects the church and
its members have performed under his leadership over the past 20 years,
including some work with people living in the mangroves.
Homeward bound, I stopped briefly in Yogya, then
Malang, a beautiful town,
where this fellow, a dwarapala,
sits nearby (in Singosari) with his brother. Lonely Planet says they
may have been part of the original gates to the headquarters of the Singosari
kingdom.
My 60 day tourist visa being nearly finished, I returned to Candi Dasa before flying home. It was easier to leave this time; maybe because I know it's not forever.
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