It was the first time I'd been in Bali in the "wet" season.   Not as wet as I'd expected, but a little inconvenient.   While we were in Tuban (south of Kuta) there were devastating floods in Jakarta;   while we were in Java, Kuta was flooded.   Bugbug and Candi Dasa were just a bit wet.

We had no trouble at all picking up the papers, and within three days were back in Bugbug.   Pak Tena reported to the Kepala Desa that I was staying with him (normal practice as all foreigners must be kept track of) and Nengah's family started to get to know better the new in-law. We split our time between Candi Dasa and Bugbug for two main reasons: firstly to keep in touch with Pak Mariatha and all our friends in Candi Dasa, and secondly I couldn't bring myself to bathe where the water runs under the road from one ricefield to the next.

At home in Bugbug with some of the family.

After a few days back home, we set off for Java to stay for a few days with Pak and Ibu Joedarto.   Bu Yud had promised to teach Nengah some of the secrets of the Javanese kitchen, and after coming so far we couldn't refuse the invitation of these wonderful people.   Their daughter Sulistyawati took a day off work, and her sister Veronica was back from a trip to Germany, so we hired a minibus and the six of us toured in style -- to Yogya, Candi Prambanan, Candi Borobudur, and other places I don't have decent photos of, including a Roman Catholic cemetary where praying to the crypt of a certain priest is said to have solved peoples' problems and cured illnesses.

Walking with the Yoedartos at Candi Prambanan.

Nengah and friend Ganesha at Candi Prambanan.

Relief at Prambanan.

Candi Prambanan

Nengah and Vero at Prambanan.

At Borobudur.

Nengah at Borobudur.

On returning to Bali, we were lucky enough to enjoy Hari Raya Nyepi (Bugbug has its own Nyepi as well as the official, all-Bali Nyepi).   This is the day when everything stops.   Until it starts again and people start making lots of noise.

According to a wonderful book, the silence is to make the butas and kalas (demons?) think that everyone's gone away, so they might as well leave too.   The noise at the end is to scare away any of the troublesome breed that might still be hanging around.   At least I think that's what it means.   We had a nice time anyway.

There was another ceremony in Bugbug a few days later -- similar to the one I saw in Tenganan Dauh Tukad in 1995 -- where the youth of the village dress up in fine clothes and walk in a parade to show off their manliness and femininity respectively.   This is followed by prayer at the main temple.

This trip turned out to be the perfect honeymoon.   Nengah was really happy to see her family again after three months in Australia (of course :-) and she enjoyed her first trip to Java, even if the 13 hour train trip from Banyuwangi to Klaten did seem a bit long.   And then there was the deluxe bus driver who left us anything but relaxed when he deliberately caused the truck behind to collide with us in revenge for the truck driver not allowing us to enter the traffic in front of him.

In all, it was a wonderful holiday, well worth the money we didn't have, and one we won't forget.   Our next Indonesian adventure will probably be next year (1997), as soon as we can afford it.   After that we plan to start a family, and hope to be living in Bali before too much longer.

My youngest brother-in-law, Ketut "Sate".

Bugbug child.

Nengah's friendly neighbour.

While there are differences between the Adat (the way things are done) in Bugbug and Jimbaran (the place Eiseman has most experience with), I have gained insights and understanding of many areas of Balinese culture and feeling that I doubt I would have learned in ten years of travelling to Bali.

Eiseman has lived in Bali for over twenty years, and has a wonderful way of explaining things, in detail where needed, and with a warmth and sense of humor that make the book a pleasure to read.

This book is not a lightweight overview.   From the back cover:

IN BALI, what you see -- sekala -- is a colorful world of ceremony, ritual, dance, and drama.   What you don't see, what is occult -- niskala -- is the doctrine underlying the rites, and the magic underlying the dance.   In this first of two volumes, author Fred Eiseman explores both tangibles and intangibles in the realm of Balinese religion, ritual, and performing arts.   The essays collected here cover topics ranging from Hindu mythology to tooth filing to modern gamelan  music.   Eiseman's approach is that of a dedicated reporter in love with his subject -- he has the knowledge and patience to explain the near-infinite permutations of the Balinese calendar, and yet he is still moved by the majesty of the great Eka Dasa Rudra ceremony.   The author's 28 years experience on the island shows, and this book rewards close reading -- even by the most seasoned students of Balinese culture.

Volume #1 is subtitled "Essays on Religion, Ritual, and Art";
Volume #2 is subtitled "Essays on Society, Tradition, and Craft".

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