Cafe Wayan, Monkey Forest Road. There are Balinese dishes on the menu every day, but on Sunday nights they do a huge buffet that's a real feast. Get plenty of exercise beforehand to whet your appetite.

Ketut's Place, Jalan Suweta, just north of the centre of Ubud. Ketut provides a Balinese banquetevery Thursday night, in a traditional setting, with explanations, Balinese music, and (rather potent) Balinese alcoholic beverages. Stop by or call to book (tel. 975 304).

"Insider" Tips and Local Favourites

For the most exotic rice terrace views, drive up to Kampung Cafe. In north Tegallallang. A big, open restaurant with an ambitiously-large and well-equipped kitchen, located in one of the most scenic areas north of Ubud. The menu and kitchen staff were put together by the former executive chef from the world-famous Amandari hotel in Sayan, and they certainly know how to bake. Sometimes holds special events with live music at night. Look for flyers around Ubud.

Take a scenic walk to a clean cafe in charming village setting. Walk along a paved path over grassy hills to Klub Kokos in Bangkiang Sidem village. Artist, Tjok Kris and his Australian wife, Cathy have a very peaceful hideway, just a stunningly beautiful few minute's walk up the hills form Pura Campuan. Bungalows are also available. The location, and the personality of the owners make this place magic. Turn into the Ibah hotel driveway, follow signs saying "Going to the Hill" and walk north along a scenic ridge high up between two river valleys. About ten or fifteen minutes later you will find Klub Kokos nestled among the tall palm trees. Have lunch and continue your walk, or stay a while and meet Kris and Cathy. You can also get there by driving north from Sayan, then taking the road which branches off to the east before you reach Payangan. Take a right at the T-junction in the middle of a simple village, then continue south a few kilometers to Bangkian Sidem. Most of the road is paved.

Personal Decadent Favorites of the Editor. Coffee at Cafe Tutmak--the best coffee in the town universe, and this comes from a Seattleite who invested in Starbucks. Cinnamon rolls and chocolate cake at Cafe Tutmak. Organic salads at Cafe Tutmak. Rose petal ice cream at Bumbu. Chai at Ary's or Bebek Bengil. Sushi and sashimi at Ryoshi. Cakes at Ayu's kitchen. Coffee cake, bagels, scones, cookies, jam, mustrad, herbal teas, meusli and Chinese medicines at Bali Buddha. Pasta and breads at Kampung Cafe in Tegallalang, north of Ubud. The fine presentation at the Chedi. The wine list at the Chedi. Gin and tonic at the elegant little evening enclave called Studio 22k. Apple pie, tiramisu and Caesar salads at Cafe ARMA. Fresh natural yogurt, and multi-grain bread at Casa Luna. (The bread looks like a cannonball. If you're staying at a hotel that gives you flavorless white bread, buy some of this and ask them to serve it to you instead.) Wall's Magnum ice cream bars--indisputably the best, with lots of Belgian chocolate and real vanilla,--available almost anywhere there's electricity, and from street vendors.