The tradition of travelling to sacred places such as graves
to beseech blessing from the spirit of the dead remains
alive in many parts of Indonesia. Pilgrimage to Mt. Kemukus
in Sragen, Central Java is one example. But what pilgrims
do in Kemukus is perhaps more unusual, and even sexual,
in nature. So why do be people get so worked up at Mt. Kemukus?
Located about 29 kilometers from Solo, Mt. Kemukus has
for many years seen huge numbers of visitors from different
parts of the archipelago. It is in the mountains where the
grave complex of Prince Samudra and his step mother Ontrowulan
lies. The grave complex is on the top of a small hill.
On certain days, especially on Thursday and Friday evening
in the Javanese calender, people of different social status
and professions visit the grave as they want their wish
to be fulfilled - wishes such as how to make their business
successful.
The pilgrims reportedly believe in a living mythology that
in order that their wish or ideal be fulfilled, they are
required to share love and have a sexual intercourse with
a previously-unknown partner he or she meets there. The
myth reportedly comes from the folklore about Prince (Joko)
Samudra from the Demak Kingdom. There are different versions
of the autobiography, but the one that has developed in
the community is that Prince Samudra and his stepmother,
Ontrowulan, were involved in love affairs. When the Prince
was seriously ill, Ontrowulan faithfully and affectionately
cared for him until he drew his last breath.
The scene in the grave complex begins with a janitor legalizing
the instantly built love relationship of the partners by
marrying them under the hand at the Ontrowulan well. The
new pairs will present offerings in the form of flowers,
bananas, and cigarettes before conveying the wish and ideal
to the janitor. From there, the newly and instantly established
partners will do whatever they wish: They will usually slip
away to the bush around the grave complex in the starry
night, and unleash their passions.
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