Irian Jaya is one of the last wilderness frontiers left in the world. With less then 2 million people, much of its 410,660 square kilometres remains untouched, shrouded in lavish primary rainforest draped over craggy mountains and shadow-filled valleys.
The indigenous people of this land are believed to speak some 250 unique languages. The Dani are its most visible ethnic group, dark skinned with wiry hair like many island people. They are distinguishable by the penis gourds they persist in wearing in spite of 40 years of missionary pressure.
Beyond the forested world of the Dani, the waters of Cenderawasih Bay and of fthe western end of Bird's Head Peninsula promise virgin reefs of breath-stopping vistas. These can be unpredictable and intense, like the sight of undersea fields of giant clams patrolled by schools of sharks.
Brushed by deep plankton-rich currents, schooling fish and pelagics are common underwater sights. Divers come out of the depths with a perspective pleasantly warped by dizzying drops of vertical walls plunging 200-300 metres into the inky blue; drift dives past colored profusions of soft corals and crinoids; encounters with the supernatural grace of eagle rays and mantas; and sliver clouds of jacks and barracuda; and the eerie thrill of diving in phosphorescent waters.
The name to remember is "Mapia". The Mapia Atoll is a spectacular coral creation, swirling with a perennial carnival of marine life playing with the tides. If you're really lucky, there will be sightings of dolphines, killer whales, and sperm whales to add to the euphoria of Irian Jaya's brilliant diving.
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