Nyepi Package

That's was how the Bali Post advertisement had caught my eye. It said 'come to the Bali Garden Hotel, Jl Kartika Plaza for Nyepi and stay for the nights of 24th and 25th March'.

The bellboy showed us to our room, switched on the television, checked the bathroom and hovered. He was tipped and went on his way.

The next few moments were spent checking out the room and balcony from which I took the photographs for my collection of 'my view from the hotel'. Time for a sleep and later a shower before going to find a restaurant and watch the 'ogoh-ogoh' show.

Later, as we left our hotel we were in for a few surprises. First of all, most of the eating places and shops were closed, even McDonalds and Matahari. Secondly, there was a traffic jam. Not surprising in retrospect as Jl Kartika Plaza is always busy. But this time the road had been turned into a car and motorcycle park.

Another surprise was the restaurant bill. Higher than I normally pay in Bali but then Kuta is touristy!

The best surprise of all came next. The 'ogoh-ogoh' procession.

Each year to celebrate Nyepi, Balinese villagers construct huge effigies several feet high. In the days leading upto Nyepi, the 'ogoh-ogoh' are strategically placed at road junctions, etc, to 'soak up' the evil sprits. Historically the 'ogoh-ogoh' would be ceremoniously burned on the eve of Nyepi so that the evil sprits are driven out. Nowadays so much work goes into the making of them, that many are preserved. It is rumoured that a Westerner paid Rp12m for one so that it would not be destroyed.

At last we could see the procession in the distance coming along Jl Bakung Sari. Led by a troupe of flaming torch carrying girls and a gamelan band, the first of the effigies arrived. It showed a multi-armed man dominant over a tiger and was carried on a bamboo frame by at least a hundred men and boys. The band played slowly at first, the effigy moving in rhythm. Dancers encircled and seemingly teased it, as now and again it would rush forward as if to grab them. During its moments of retreat, the air became filled with sweet smelling scents. The music became more frantic, frenetic and louder. The tension was building. The dancers became tranced. The 'ogoh-ogoh' became more aggressive in its movements. Suddenly, as if from a hidden signal, the 'ogoh-ogoh' was propelled to continue its journey to Kuta Beach. The crowd hastily parted making room for the troupe and this huge beast.

Each 'ogoh-ogoh' was replaced by another and then another, all eventually being set out on an area of grass above Kuta beach just next to the hotel in which we were staying.

The day of silence begins at sunrise and last twenty-four hours. It is the time for Balinese to reflect and meditate. No one is allowed out, there must be no lights in the hours of darkness, the streets are deserted - somehow the street dogs disappear as well.

Staying within the hotel grounds, my friend and I walked to Kuta beach. Another surprise - normally full of tourists being offered T-shirts, massage, or eskrim - it was totally deserted. Everywhere had a surreal air of quietness about it, so much so, that everyone seemed compelled to talk in whispers. Even the sea hardly lapped the shore.

The hours of darkness were even more quiet.

Before Nyepi, I had thought that as the whole of Bali would be without light, it would be a wonderful opportunity to study the stars and maybe even see a satellite passing overhead. I was wrong! Everywhere was pitch black. You couldn't see the nose on your face. There was nothing else to do but to go to bed.

The following day, we joined the many people who had come to see and photograph the many 'ogoh-ogoh' above Kuta beach. These epitomised the skill and craftsmanship that the Balinese have and why Westerners ship so many artefacts to their homelands.

We walked back to our hotel to pack our belongings and leave for another year. I thought back to the time that I had first walked on Kuta Beach some two and a half years before. Then, I had found a coconut and had stabbed its eyes to drink its milk. Lot has happened between then and now but that is another story and perhaps a future Bali Online writing competition entry.



Mr. Les Towsend